How to install Brick veneer

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Ground lvv&l

 ground lvv&l




Remove all siding materials in the

Area you plan to finish with brick veneer. Before laying out the project, cut the sill extension from a pressure-treated 2×4. Tack the extension to the sill temporarily.

Precut the bricks to follow the slope of the sill and overhang the field brick by 2". Position this rowlock brick directly under the sill extension. Use a combination square or level to transfer the lowest point on the brick onto the sheathing (marking the height for the top course of brick in the field). Use a level to extend the line. Remove the sill extensions.

Make a story pole long enough to span the project area. Mark the pole with %" joints between bricks. Dig a 12"-wide, 12"-deep trench next to the wall. Position the pole so the top-course line on the sheathing aligns with a top mark for a brick on the pole. Mark a line for the first course on the wall, below ground level.








Extend the mark for the first-course height across the foundation wall using a level as a guide. Measure the thickness of the metal shelf (usually %") and drill pilot holes for 10d nails into the foundation at 16" intervals along the first-course line, far enough below the line to allow for the thickness of the shelf. Slip nails into the pilot holes to create temporary support for the shelf.

Set the metal shelf onto the temporary supports. Mark the location of the center web of each block onto the vertical face of the shelf. Remove the shelf and drill M "-dia. holes for lag screws at the web marks. Set the shelf back onto the temporary supports and outline the predrilled holes on the blocks. Remove the shelf and drill holes for the masonry anchors into the foundation using a masonry bit. Drive masonry anchors into the holes.


Expansion jottit

 expansion jottit






Reposition the shelf on the supports so the predrilled holes align with the masonry anchors. Attach the shelf to the foundation wall withal x 4" lag screws and washers. Allow yw for an expansion joint between shelf sections. Remove the temporary support nails.

Staple 30-mil PVC flashing above the foundation wall after all sections of the metal shelf are attached. Be sure the PVC overlaps the metal shelf.

Test-fit the first course on the shelf. Work in from the ends, using spacers to set the gaps between bricks. You may need to cut the final brick for the course. Or, choose a pattern such as running bond that uses cut bricks.


Build up the corners two courses above ground level, and then attach line blocks and mason’s string to the end bricks. Fill in the field bricks so they align with the strings. Every 30 minutes, smooth mortar joints that are firm.

Attach another course of PVC flashing to the wall so it covers the top course of bricks, and then staple building paper to the wall so it overlaps the top edge of the PVC flashing by at least 12". Mark wall — stud locations on the building paper.

Use the story pole to mark layout lines for the tops of every fifth course of bricks. Attach corrugated metal wall ties to the sheathing where the brick lines meet the marked wall-stud locations.


Fill in the next course of bricks, applying mortar directly onto the PVC flashing. At every third mortar joint in this course, tack a 10" piece of %"-dia. cotton rope to the sheathing so it extends all the way through the bottom of the joint, creating a weep hole for drainage. Embed the metal wall ties in the mortar beds applied to this course.

Add courses of bricks, building up corners first, and then filling in the field. Embed the wall ties into the mortar beds as you reach them. Use corner blocks and a mason’s string to verify the alignment, and check frequently with a 4-ft. level to make sure the veneer is plumb.


Apply a VAthick mortar bed to the top course and begin laying the rowlock bricks with the cut ends against the wall. Apply a layer of mortar to the bottom of each rowlock brick, and then press the brick up against the sheathing with the top edge following the slope of the windowsills.

Finish-nail the sill extensions to the windowsills. Nail sill — nosing trim to the siding to cover any gaps above the rowlock course. Fill cores of exposed rowlock blocks with mortar and caulk any gaps around the veneer with silicone caulk.

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