Bricks are then fastened every fourth course thereafter. At outside corners, a specialty strip is fastened to 1 x 4 furring strips. Corner blocks for both outside and inside corners are secured with screwrs and construction adhesive.
Before installing brick veneer siding, make sure all openings are properly sealed. For best results, use a self-adhesive waterproof membrane. Install the bottom strip first, and then the side strips so they overlap the bottom strip. Place the top strip to overlap the sides. Install drip-edge flashing where appropriate.
Cut veneer brick using a miter saw with a diamond blade or a wet masonry saw. When cutting brick, protect yourself with heavy work gloves, safety glasses, earplugs, and a dust mask. See pages 116 to 117 for more brick cutting tips.
Predrill holes in bricks that require fastening using a hammer drill with a Ґu" masonry bit. Position the brick face-up on the ground and secure with your foot. Drill through the notch in the top portion of the brick, holding the drill bit at 90° to the ground.
Snap a level chalk line %" above the foundation on each wall of the house. Align the bottom end of furring strips above the chalk line. Fasten 1 x 3 furring strips at each stud location with #10 x T/“ corrosion-resistant wood screws. Install 1 x 4 furring strips at outside corners and 1 x 6s at inside corners.
For each opening, cut %" plywood lintels to a size of 15" high x 12" longer than the width of the opening. Center the lintel above the opening so 6" extends beyond each side of the frame, and fasten to framing with #10 screws. Install an aluminum drip-edge above the window frame, and then wrap the lintel and flashing with a strip of self-adhesive waterproof membrane.
Predrill a hole at the notch in each corner block. Drill holes at a 30° angle using a hammer drill and a V masonry bit. Place a veneer brick on the starter strip for reference, and then slide the first corner block down the corner strip and position it so the bottom edge falls V" below the bottom edge of the brick. Fasten the brick to the strip with #10 x T/“ wood screws.
Continue to install corner blocks using #10 x T/" screws and construction adhesive between courses. For the top of the corner, measure the remaining length and cut a piece of corner strip to size. Fasten blocks to this loose length, cutting the final piece to size if necessary (see page 189). Secure one last block to the existing corner using construction adhesive, and then fit the new assembly in place and fasten with #10 x 2V?" screws.
For inside corners, predrill holes at 30° angles into inside corner blocks. As with outside corners, position the first block so the bottom edge is ‘A" below the bottom edge of the first course of veneer brick. Fasten the block to the framing with #10 x 4" wood screws. Continue installing blocks with #10 screws and construction adhesive between each course.
To create the best overall appearance, place a row of bricks on the starter strip so they extend past the width of the most prominent opening on each wall. Place a brick on the second course at each end of the opening, so each sit evenly above the joint of two bricks below. Sight down from the edges of the opening’s frame and adjust the entire row to find a pattern that yields the least amount of small pieces of brick around the opening.
Predrill holes through veneer bricks for the first course (see page 265). Following the established pattern, install bricks on starter strip. At corners, cut bricks to size, so they fit snugly against the blocks. Set bricks using a scrap 2×4 and rubber mallet to help maintain consistent course alignment.
At each furring strip, hold bricks flat against the wall and secure to the framing with #10 x T/“ screws. Drive screws until the head touches the brick. Do not over tighten.
Fill the brick courses using bricks from different pallets to blend slight variance in color. Set bricks using a scrap of 2 x 4 and a rubber mallet. Check every fourth course for level before fastening bricks to the framing at each furring strip.
To install sill blocks below the widow, fasten a horizontal 1 x 3 furring strip under the window frame, extending Vs" longer than the cumulative width of the sill blocks. Install bricks up to the top of the furring strip, cutting to fit as needed, and fasten each with two #10 x 2W wood screws. Apply construction adhesive along the top of the furring strip and bricks.
Install the sills, angling them downward slightly, and secure with #10 x 4" wood screws, toenailing through the ends or bottom of the sill into the framing. Cut brick filler pieces to bridge the gap between the sill and the last full course of brick; make sure the pieces align with the rest of the course. Install the pieces with construction adhesive. Seal the gap between the window frame and the sill with exterior-grade caulk.
Continue installing brick along the openings, to a height no more than the width of one brick. Cut a piece of starter strip to length, align it with the courses on either side of the opening, and secure to the framing with #10 x 7/“ screws. Install a course of bricks on the starter strip, fastening them with #10 screws.
Cut bricks for the soldier course to length, and then install vertically with two #10 x 7}/“ screws each. For the final brick, cut of the top portion and secure in place with construction adhesive. For a more symmetrical look, place cut bricks in the center of the course.
At the tops of walls, install 1 x 3 horizontal furring strips. Secure the second to the last course of bricks to the framing with #10 x 2V?" screws, and then install the last course with construction adhesive. Notch bricks to fit around joists or cut at an angle for gable walls.